Why a sunny spot suits gravel so well

If you have a corner of the garden that bakes in summer, drains in seconds and leaves you dragging a hose about, gravel is the answer rather than the problem. A gravel garden works with the conditions instead of fighting them. The stones warm up quickly in spring, reflect light back onto the plants, and stop the soil beneath from drying out quite so fast — which sounds contradictory until you realise that a layer of gravel acts as a mulch, slowing evaporation while keeping the crowns of plants dry and free from rot.

There is a wildlife bonus too. Bare, sun-warmed gravel is a basking spot for slow worms, lizards and ground beetles, and open ground between plants is exactly what solitary bees need when they nest in the soil. Once established, a gravel garden needs very little from you beyond an occasional tidy-up and a sharp pair of secateurs.

Clear the ground properly before anything else

This is the stage most people rush, and it is the one that decides whether the garden stays low-maintenance or becomes a weekly battle. Gravel suppresses annual weeds well, but it does nothing at all against perennial thugs. Dig out every scrap of bindweed root, ground elder, couch grass and dandelion taproot you can find. If the ground is badly infested, cover it with black polythene or a thick layer of cardboard for a full growing season first.

Then improve the soil, but only in the right direction. Most drought-tolerant plants hate sitting in rich, soggy ground. Fork in plenty of horticultural grit and some well-rotted compost — roughly one bucket of grit to one of compost per square metre on heavy clay — and aim for a free-draining, lean-ish mix. If the area puddles after rain, add more grit and consider raising the whole bed by 10–15cm.

• Weed thoroughly — two or three goes over several weeks is better than one frantic session.
• Add grit to heavy soil to open it up and improve drainage.
• Keep gravel clear of the house, stopping at least 15cm below the damp-proof course and away from airbricks.

Choosing plants that thrive on neglect

The trick is to think Mediterranean. Plants from dry, rocky hillsides in southern Europe and Asia Minor have adapted to exactly these conditions, and they look good doing it.

Lavender is the classic choice, and Lavandula angustifolia varieties such as 'Hidcote' or 'Munstead' are the most reliable in a British summer, being hardier and more compact than the French and Spanish types. Rosemary, thyme, oregano and winter savory bring scent and evergreen structure, and all of them are first-rate bee plants. Add sedums — the tall Hylotelephium spectabile types are superb for late butterflies, while the low carpeting sedums and sempervivums knit the gravel together.

For height and movement, try Verbena bonariensis, eryngium, ornamental thistles and a clump or two of Stipa tenuissima. Cistus, santolina, artemisia and euphorbia all earn their place, and bulbs such as alliums, crocus and dwarf narcissus will push up through the gravel each spring without any help from you.

• Group by water need — keep the thirstiest plants together so you can water one area rather than all of it.
• Repeat a few key plants rather than collecting one of everything; it looks calmer and is easier to care for.
• Include evergreens so the bed does not vanish into bare soil in winter.
• Leave seedheads standing through autumn and winter for the birds.

Planting and laying the gravel

Plant in autumn or early spring, while the soil is still workable and rain will do the watering for you. Space plants a little closer than you would in a border — they will close over the gravel faster and shade out weed seedlings. Water each one in well, then leave a shallow saucer of bare soil around the stem so water reaches the roots rather than running off the stones.

For the gravel itself, choose a 10–20mm stone: pea gravel is cheap and widely available but tends to be walked into the house and migrates into lawns, while very large stones are uncomfortable to kneel on and hard to plant through. Aim for a layer 5–7cm deep — thin enough for bulbs and self-seeders to push through, thick enough to smother weed seeds. A membrane underneath is useful in a purely decorative area, but in a planted gravel garden I would skip it and rely on the depth of gravel plus dense planting instead.

Consider setting a few flat paving stones into the gravel as stepping stones. They make weeding and cutting back far easier, and they give the whole area a sense of intention.

Keeping it looking good with very little effort

For the first summer, water new plants deeply once a week during dry spells — this is the only year they will need you. After that, rainfall is usually enough. Resist the urge to feed; rich soil makes lavender flop, sedums split open and grey-leaved plants grow soft and short-lived.

Cut lavender back lightly in late August, taking the flower stems and a little of the soft growth but never cutting into old wood. Leave sedums and grasses standing until late February or March, then cut them down and pull away any dead material. Top up the gravel every few years to keep the layer at depth, and hoe or hand-pull the odd weed seedling while it is small — five minutes in May saves an hour in July.

That really is the whole routine: a spring tidy, an August trim, and a wander round with a cup of tea to enjoy the bees. A gravel garden gives you back your weekends and gives wildlife somewhere to live, which is a fair bargain for a sunny corner.